Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Pouce - cafe

CLEAN ROCK
August in the Alps: hot, long queues, traffic jams, mobs of tourons, ect. Therefore a great time to get into the hills and go climbing.
STIAN ON THE SHARP END
Looking for a somewhat casual day not involving big boots, glaciers or alpine starts. Stian and I set off for the W. face of the Aig. du Pouce, a brisk 45 jaunt from the top of the Index lift brought us to the base of the wall. 350 meters of compact slabs and striking dihedrals capped by a massive series of overhangs. We chose Pouce-cafe, an engaging route established in the mid 80's, not your modern Piola clip up.
NICE VIEWS
UPPER SLABS
THROUGH THE ROOFS
A dozen pitches brought us to the top followed by a cool ridge traverse back to the col, down to the lift and finally to a beer at the cafe.

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

CACHE CACHE

Pt. Adolphe Rey
Back to the gorgeous granite of the Satellites du Tacul. This time Pt. Adolphe Rey, Cache Cache 6c 250m
L4 
L2
L3
SALLUARD: EAST BLOC STYLE
GLACIER du GEANT
L4
L5 (rappeling)
L6
L6

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

AIG. DU MOINE

MOINE
WANDERING
JORASSES
LES ECHELLES
ARETE SUD
DOWN
UP
GAPING
BIVY SPOT
BALCON MER DE GLACE

Sunday, August 5, 2012

Le Ticket, le Carre, le Rond et la Lune



Les dalles nord-ouest du Peigne loom above the Plan de l'aiguille lift station. A beautiful 300m high plaque of granite, reminiscent of the legendary Tuolumne slabs. 'Le Ticket', a  Piola route put up in the early 80's during the heyday of slab climbing, takes a devious line up this grand feature.
L2

Ben and Cedric practicing their slab technique
L5
Finally a crack
dalle